Today I learned something new. If you are an enthusiastic climber, you’ve probably heard of Steve House. If you are not big on climbing, and haven’t heard of Steve House, you may want to check this guy out.
At 39, this guy is known as the world’s best alpinist climber. That’s quite a feat. He has no idea how many mountains he’s climbed, but he does know he’s been up Denali 14 times; he’s climbed Nanga Parbat, with the tallest mountain face in the world; he’s won the Golden Ice Axe award; he’s learned with the best of the best and he’s climbed heights in incredibly short periods of time.
Steve House in Fairbanks presenting his Slideshow
In Fairbanks House held a book signing and slideshow Friday night. His book is called Beyond the Mountain and covers periods of his life when he was just learning to climb, times when he thought he might die, times when he injured himself badly and some of the best times of his life.
He’s not from Alaska (he’s from Oregon) and most of his climbs are not in Alaska, but he has spent a lot of time and had life-changing experiences here.
In 2000, Steve House, Scott Backes and Mark Twight took on the South Face of Denali (or the Slovak Route), and they took it on with such confidence that the plan was to summit in just 48 hours. They ended up ascending in 60 hours, but for guys who were 29, 43 and 39 at the time (respectively), that is no disappointment. There had been two ascents of the Slovak before them, one done in 11 days and the other done in a week. The three men formed such a partnership in 2000, that after the climb when Backes and Twight decided to retire from climbing, House actually decided to go solo for a while.
His book covers a great deal more of his life and experiences and would be a perfect read for those winter days when it’s just too cold to get out.
I bought the book for my mom (Mikey Lean) and made a huge mistake. I didn’t get his autograph. My mom has climbed Denali before and is an avid reader of climbing stories, so when I told her about the book, the first thing she asked was, “Did you get his autograph?!” I felt like an idiot. I had just assumed the autograph was in the book already and left without looking harder for the author himself. She might never forgive me for that, but I know she’ll enjoy the book.